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A Promise of Welcome: Ristras and the Chile Culture of New Mexico
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11268 |
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Section : |
CULTURE
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| Issue
Date : |
9 / 1993 |
3,441 Words |
| Author
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Martha Oehmke Loustaunau
Martha Oehmke Loustaunau is a sociologist on the faculty of
New Mexico State University, Las Cruces. |
The Spanish greeting ¡Bien venido! Mi casa es su casa (Welcome! My house is your house) summarizes the traditional hospitality of the New Mexican character. That character is further expressed by the cascading masses of shiny, flame-red chile pods, expertly threaded into long ristras (braids), that hang from walls, posts, doors, and gateways, covering rooftops and porches like deep red carpets drying in the sun. Whether made from real chile pods or painted or ceramic ones, the chile ristra might be said to portray a way of life. It is as much a part of the landscape as the dramatic southwestern sunset.
Southwesterners have long been noted for their warmth, friendliness, and hospitality. Chiles are integral to the regional cuisine: They are consumed by the ton. For New Mexicans, however, chiles have become symbols of identity. They dominate the fall harvest and are celebrated with festivals. Chiles are woven into the history of the state, agriculturally, economically and culturally. The pods and ristras are depicted in decorative items like pottery and jewelry, splashed liberally onto clothing, and used as symbols in advertisements and promotions.
Chile was adopted by New Mexico's legislature as the state vegetable after some debate over classification. Botanically, it is a berry; due to the way the seeds form inside the pods. The pods themselves, however, are fruits. The green, or immature, form of the chile is considered a vegetable, and the dried red pods are ground into a spice.
Chile use and popularity are growing and undergoing extensive cultural diffusion due to enthusiastic tourists, newly initiated diners, and promotion by researchers and growers. There are exciting scientific developments, too: Chiles are being used in cosmetics, as natural food coloring, in medications, and even for personal protection. The ristra has become a symbol of promise, uniting a cultural tradition with a brighter and expanded future.
The Whole Enchilada
The true cultural celebration of the chile occurs with the harvest festivals. The Whole Enchilada Fiesta in Las Cruces, begun in 1981, pays tribute to the chile and celebrates the harvest with a community-centered event. The fiesta introduced "Tweffie," the red chile mascot that dominates the festivities, and each year cooks up the world's largest enchilada. Created by Roberto Estrada, owner of Roberto's Mexican Restaurant, the three-layer concoction, seventeen feet in diameter, requires 100 gallons of
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