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Villages on Stilts: Life in Colombia's Pacific Coastal Provinces


Article # : 10431 

Section : CULTURE
Issue Date : 2 / 1993  1,863 Words
Author : Gary Predmore
Gary Predmore is a freelance photojournalist who has worked extensively in Central and South America since 1984.

       A crowd of about fifty people had gathered to board the bus, a converted truck that would take us to the small town of Istmina on Colombia's Pacific coast. The vehicle's limited capacity of twenty-five to thirty passengers had been seriously diminished by the pigs, dogs, goats, sheep, baskets, and other assorted cargo already placed on board, hanging out of windows, sitting on the roof, clinging to the hood, and cramming into every available nook and cranny. Under such conditions, we chugged off into the world of the river people of Colombia.
       
       The modern nation of Colombia is defined by four distinct geographic areas. In the north, bordering the Caribbean is the "Colombian Riviera," which is populated by Spanish-speaking people of African descent. This region's economic life depends largely on tourism. Both Cartagena, the former capital of Spanish South America, and Santa Marta posses the Caribbean flavor and tropical influences that make the region ideal for travel.
       
       The modern and complex capital city of Bogotá lies at the heart of Colombia's mountainous interior. Residents of this area are largely of European descent, and they take great pride in their claim that "the best Spanish outside Spain" is spoken in Bogotá. The people and cultures here are similar to those in Andean countries like Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia.
       
       Across the high plateau from Bogotá are the llanos, or plains, of the Amazon River valley. Set within the majestic panorama of thousands of square miles of almost impenetrable jungle, this area is settled largely by cattle ranchers, the llaneros, their ranches dot the landscape less than one hundred miles from Bogotá. The Chibcha are the largest of the indigenous tribes that populate the region.
       
       The fourth and most primitive area is one that few outsiders ever see. The Pacific coastal provinces of Choco, the Cauca Valley coast, and Narino are difficult to penetrate. Extending from Panama down to the border with Ecuador, this region is probably the least developed and poorest part of the country.
       
       'Don't mind the stares'
       
       The province of Choco, in the far northwestern section of Colombia, is an area of tremendous jungles, wide rivers, and very few roads. Choco's provincial capital, Quibdo, can only be reached by jeep or bus over a one-vehicle dirt road that leads through the infamous city of Medellin. Quibdo is bustling, thriving
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