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Dancing Through Time: The Lengendary Parachicos of Chiapa de Corzo, Mexico


Article # : 18777 

Section : CULTURE
Issue Date : 12 / 1991  3,290 Words
Author : David Manry
David Manry is a free-lance writer and photographer based in Denver, Colorado.

       It is a warm, sun-drenched morning in Chiapa de Corzo, a small, quiescent town straddling the Pan-American Highway in southern Mexico. A large crowd waits expectantly in the stone-flagged courtyard beneath the imposing white edifice of the Temple of Santo Domingo. These citizens have gathered to take part in an age-old ritual that binds them together in a common fold.
       
        A faint, distant drumbeat, growing louder as it draws nearer, signals that the day's festivities are about to begin. A coterie of elegant young women appears on the scene. Their long, flowing skirts--richly embroidered in luminous floral designs--skim the cobbled walkway with delicate grace. Some of these dignified women carry bright stain banners mounted on tall wooden staffs, adding a heraldic touch to the colorful pageant.
       
        Looming above the procession like a vision, a life-size effigy of Saint Antonio Abad gazes beneficently from his flower-decked throne. One of Chiapa de Corzo's three patron saints, the weighty figure is borne effortlessly through the crowd by his faithful attendants, while the awestruck onlookers bow their heads in silent devotion.
       
        This solemn parade is followed by a rowdy spectacle that contrasts in every possible way. More than two hundred masked, bushy-headed characters swagger into the courtyard, shaking tin rattles and bellowing obscure chants that defy interpretation. These outlandish figures are the legendary Parachicos of Chiapa de Corzo, who provide the main entertainment during the festival of Saint Sebastian Martir.
       
        Shuffling to the tireless beat of a single drum, the strange, unruly mob converges on the temple, but stops short of bursting through its doors. When the meandering rhythm slows to a forceful, hypnotic tempo, the dancing Parachicos immediately begin jumping up and down in unison, as if obeying an unspoken command. Soon, the temple doors swing open, and a robed priest emerges beneath the archway to confront the obstreperous horde. Spectators and Parachicos fall silent as he casts his blessings on the assembled throng. Following this quick benediction the costumed ones resume their agitated frenzy, shaking their rattles and shouting muffled verses that resonate behind their wooden masks. Without missing a beat, the Parachicos turn their backs on the church and march to the adjacent soccer field, sending a thick cloud of dust into the shimmering blue sky.
       
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