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Living on One's Wits


Article # : 16396 

Section : BOOK WORLD
Issue Date : 5 / 1989  2,574 Words
Author : John H. Fund
John H. Fund is an editorial writer for the Wall Street Journal.

       PLAYING AWAY
       Roman Holidays and Other Mediterranean Encounters
       Michael Mewshaw
       New York: Atheneum, 1988
       234 pp.; $18.95
       
        A good modern-day travel writer is far more than someone whose major selling point is telling you which foreign hotels have American-sized ice cubes. To give a true look at a distant land's cultural footprints, the sophisticated travel writer must be something of a scholar, combining the skills of navigator, geologist, botanist, meteorologist, naturalist, mechanic, historian, cartographer, pharmacist, detective, novelist, snob, humorist, mimic, and stamp collector. In short, he needs a passing knowledge of just about everything.
       
        Michael Mewshaw, a novelist and prize-winning investigative journalist, competently fills that role. For the past several years, he has written a monthly "Letter from Rome" in European Travel and Life magazine, describing his varied experiences. Now he has published his pieces in a charming collection titled Playing Away, a bemused American's look at life along the Mediterranean shoreline.
       
        Mewshaw is a stylish writer and a deft anecdoteur. His discussions of everyday life, his often hilarious misencounters with Italians, and his description of the Tuscany countryside give the reader unfamiliar with Italy a vivid introduction to that country--and the old Italian hand, a sentimental journey through familiar haunts.
       
        The peregrinations included in this volume include several that landed Mewshaw outside of his Italian home base. He visits Monte Carlo to examine the life of pro tennis players after they've left the court. He looks in on one of the bazaars of Marakech, Morocco. In El Oued, Algeria, he is told by natives he must see the Souf Museum. When he finally finds it, it is
       
        No larger than a three-car garage … the bulk of the exhibit
        … was an ambitious collection of venomous snakes the
        size of earth-worms, intestinal worms the size of boa
        constrictors, scorpions the size of ten-dollar lobsters,
        horned beetles as big as Princess telephones, hairy
        spiders,
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