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San'a Al-Qadeema: The Challenges of Modernization


Article # : 11059 

Section : MODERN THOUGHT
Issue Date : 6 / 1986  5,900 Words
Author : Fritz Piepenberg
Fritz Piepenberg is a journalist and author and is the Middle East Times correspondent in Yemen. This article will appear in the book. The Middle East City, edited by Abdulaziz Y. Saqqaf, forthcoming this year from Paragon House. This article is printed with the permission of the Professors World Peace Academy, which sponsored the conference on the Middle East city at which this article was first presented.

       Historical Voices On San'a
       
        It was never easy to reach San'a, located as it is in the very heart of mountainous Yemen on the southwestern corner of the Arabian Peninsula. Yet those who took upon themselves the tiresome journey on donkey or camelback have felt both awed and inspired by the high-rising houses of the age-old capital. Arabs and foreigners alike have expressed their impressions in numerous pieces of literature. A few excepts are given below.
       
        "La budda min San'a"--"San'a must be seen…" are famous words first attributed to Imam Muhammed Ibn Idris Al Shafi'I (768-820) who visited the ancient capital several times. even though his motivation for taking the long journey south may have been his ceaseless striving for more religious knowledge (San'a was famous for her Ulama), he could hardly have failed to appreciate the city's unique architecture and heritage. Many who followed the example of Al Shafi'i have been deeply impressed by the striking beauty of the tall stone and brick houses.
       
        Ibn Rustah, the geographer of the early tenth century, is one of the early Arab travelers to describe the city. In his Book of Precious Records, he gives the following description: "It is the city of Yemen--there not being found in the highland or the Tihama or the Hijaz a city greater, more populous or more prosperous, of nobler origin or more delicious food than it. …San'a is a populous city with fine dwellings, some above others, but most of them are decorated with plaster, burned bricks, and dressed stones."
       
        A contemporary of Ibn Rustah, the well-known Yemeni geographer and historian Al Hamdani, marveled at the cleanliness of the city: "The least dwelling there has a well or two, a garden and long cesspits separate from each other, empty of ordure, without smell or evil odors, because of the hard concrete and fine pasture-land and clean places to walk."
       
        A century later, Al Razi, another Yemeni scholar, described the tall houses of the northern part of the town in his "History" of the city of San'a; "[they] stretch up to the sky, with dwelling places and high rooms of the most splendid construction and most beautiful workmanship. They were the most imposing of the dwellings of San'a--they were the dwelling places of such governors as came from Iraq (the Abbasid governors)."
       
        The famous Arab traveler Ibn Batutah visited San'a probably in 1331.
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