Issue Date: June 2001

Men sitting on a sidewalk in Cairo's Zamalek neighborhood one Friday morning. They are listening to someone across the street preach.

Today Kerabi travels by bus for nearly an hour to his shop, and his wife cannot easily make the journey. His children are all in schools located far from the Khan, so life is no longer the concentrated family affair it once was. But Khan al-Khalili still offers a rare glimpse of life in the Third World as it used to be. It embodies the bustling marketplaces of medieval society preserved for the moment in a vital, living culture.

As I walk among the crowds, bearers pass by carrying trays of dark, sweet tea to the shopkeepers, who cannot leave, even for a minute, while potential customers are in the street. I stroll through an area of perfume shops, where delicate, blown-glass bottles hold scents that cannot be mass-labeled or fit into a mass-market rung. Each shopkeeper knows where the fragrance comes from and often can tell you about the man who made it and the name of his father and grandfather.
 

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