Issue Date: June 2001
Cairo's great market, Khan al-Khalili, was the last stop before the caravans headed out into the deserts of Sinai. It was the most important place to stock up on the food, water, and trade goods that travelers would need for journeys to Jerusalem, Baghdad, Persia, and as far as Afghanistan, India, and China. When the caravans came home, they returned to the market. Here, inside the walls of Egypt's largest city, traders unloaded spices, silks, gems, and other valuables gathered on their dusty treks.
This small restaurant and lunch counter officers falafel and other specialties.

Khan al-Khalili stood, literally, at the crossroads of the world. Goods flowed north to Europe or south to Africa, west to Morocco and Spain, or east to Arabia and India. Some believe that the market became so influential--through its control over the flow of spices from India to Europe--that it spurred Spain to send explorers such as Christopher Columbus to search for an alternative route to the Spice Islands and India.

Today, some seven hundred years after it was founded, Khan al-Khalili remains one of the world's major retail markets. Cairo is widely accepted as the de facto capital of the Arab world, and its historic market is a magnet for Egyptians and visitors. Here discreetly veiled women, standing next to tourists off cruise ships, shop for slippers. A man in a tribal costume passes by, selling water from a leather container carried on his back. Mothers and fathers clutch children to their chests as they navigate the market's tiny streets or the broader al-Muski Street, a thoroughfare lined with shops selling everything from shawls to washing machines.

The labyrinth of small shops, the smell of spices, the call of hawkers, and the rising heat at the beginning of the hot season could be scenes stolen from Hollywood stereotypes of the Orient. This is a place to smell the spices of Asia and Africa, to view hand-worked leather hassocks and gemstones set in gold, to buy plastic toys and find blankets that will warm dark-eyed Egyptian babies.
 


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